MASTER CLASS: 2010-05-02

"Hampden"

Baltimore, Maryland

aka, by the locals:

Hamdin in Bawlmer, Marelin

JACK, the official Mare of Hamdin, hon!!

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Iss just ignert to pay twunny times da munny fur things whin you can git x-lint things cheep upta Hamdin, in Bawlmer, hon.

As a proud eighth-generation Marylander, Baltimore's dialect and colloquialisms crack me up, I LOVE Baltimore, always have. It's truly one of the worlds friendliest towns with no attitude or pretense.

Imagine, a large city happily sequestered in the blue-collar world of the mid-twentieth century (helloooo... John Waters, Barry Levinson)

Don't get me wrong hon, thur's money in Bawlmer! But no one shows off, aspires to another, higher station or forgets where they're from. Bawlmer keeps ya honest, and that's how, in a word, I'd describe it,"honest."

The charming neighborhood of Hampden blows me away!!

It's seedy, hot, raw, fresh, modern, old, alive... and full of bargains!

Hampden is now what Georgetown, Greenwich Village and Haight-Ashbury used to be like in the 60's & 70's. Now, those neighborhoods are void of indigenous character as they've trangressed into bland upmarket retail zones catering to chains like: Chipotle, Pottery Barn, William-Sonoma and The Cheesecake Factory.

Hampden's indigenous retailers and ressturnts are tucked into defunct banks, old storefronts and townhouses with form-stone facades which have housed Baltimore's blue-collar workers for well over a century.

It's a chaotic, bohemian-chic, mish-mosh of mostly home-goods stores, used and retro furniture dealers. However, alongside the home stores are these uhmaz'n other stores. Card shops, edgy handmade clothing and jewelry stores, auto body shops, Bikram yoga studios, spiritual healers, pom readers, adult sex-toy shops, head shops, and my favorite, the "Little Shop of Hardware" which all support each other as a neighborhood and a community. The prices seem to be about half the prices you'd expect in Washington, Florida, or New York, or even the north side of Baltimore...

WARNING: If you don't like seedy places where the shops need culling through to find something you like, and the crowds not wearing Prada or Marc Jacobs you wont like this experience...at all...its gritty and real, and VERY safe!

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Lits stroll round hon..limme showya dem stowrs (stores)..

IN WATERMELON SUGAR: My favorite store in Hampden! It's got great home stuff; accessories, dishes, hurricanes, artwork, scents, tabletop, holiday items, etc. The merchandising style is amazing.

OAKENSHAWE: Mid-century Modern antiques, "future antiques" and well-designed junk. Friendly laid-back sales people and lots of inventory at r-e-a-l-l-y reasonable prices.

RAZZO: For all your hand-painted crab-shell needs. The Christmas arnamints are out of control.

ANTREASIAN ART GALLERY: Original art pieces by local artists, sculpture, flat works and break-out pieces.

THE RED TREE: A beautifully staged store; cool, simple accessories and house-wares. That Cal Ripken, Jr. pillow speaks volumes on Baltimore dedication to its own. The owl andirons shown have 'open eyes' so you see the flames flickering behind them and look spooky. Lots of cool stuff. They have furniture, art, lighting and tabletop.

PUFFS & PASTRY: A fabaliss bakery and pastry shop! You gotta get the "Filo Spiral" filled with feta and spinach.

They also represent various artists. Rebecca Woll's work, shown here, was my favorite. Her garjus flairs (gorgeous flowers) with beautiful color combinations are awesome.

SQUIDFIRE: T-shirts in kooky fun designs

HOMETOWN GIRL (& soda fountain!): Hysterical Maryland and Baltimore items situated among other smart, fun gifts, home items and books. Well staged in a fun, period-style store.

THE PEARL GALLERY: A 'Zen' feeling home accessory store selling artworks, garden objects, furniture, and offers inhouse framing. The large framed hand painted watercolors of birds (shown above) are stunning and have wonderful, affordable prices between $200 & $600 (dat includes the garjus frames too!)

LOVELY YARNS: A great store offering zillions of choices for the skein lovers (and lessons too!). The tree shown here is tohtlee knitted up in its spring sweater.. give it a hug as u pass by... notice the knotted hanging on the porch wall "come stitch and bitch, hon." Only in Baltimore....

BRIAN'S FINDS & DESIGN'S: This newcomer is totally fun and packed with wacky home stuff... especially Hampden's mascot, the Flamingo... in many forms.

1. Ma PETITE SHOES & CHOCOLATE: wtf? Totally over the top shoes, YOU Must go into this store, men or women, GREAT stylish shoes and unusual chocolates.
2. PUFF & PASTRIES: Amazingly delicious old fashioned

treats, YUM! (And good artwork too!)

3. SOUPS ON: Soups, lunches, salads and great choc. chip cookies!

4. ANGELA LYNN: Gorgeous, handmade artisan jewelry and elegantly comfortable, chic, clothes.

1. MILAGRO: Cultural blend of clothing, folk art & pottery

2. STURGIS ANTIQUES: Fun finds, from wacky to serious stuff

3. HAMPDEN JUNQUE: A total scream! A tongue-in-cheek

shop carrying period religious iconographies from Bawlmer's

huge Catholic community. Must See... TOTALLY tackola!!

4. DAVID'S: Estate furniture. The kinda store I truly love.

1. PARADISO: Wonderful antiques and modern furniture

2. WILD YAM POTTERY: Handmade stoneware and

porcelain pottery for home and garden. Think 'Vermont'

3. WOODWARD'S: Auction house; Treasures and trash

4. ATOMIC BOOKS: A legendary fun, urban, independent

bookstore selling: Zines, comix, self-published periodicals

and fringe non-fiction (and the John Waters fan-mail reciever)

A quick smatterin of dem udder stawrs

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HAMDIN'S GOTTSUM FABLISS RESSTURNTS TOO!

CAFE HON

The cuisine isn't what draws you, its the experience...

This entawr neighborhood seems to be centered around "Cafe Hon."

You cant miss it's three story flamingo mounted on its facade. Inside you can order great regional "comfort food" like crab cakes, egg salad on cheese toast, Maryland crab soup, chili, BLT's, tuna salad, and iced tea and a cokolah. All served by locals with beehive hairdo's and cats-eye glasses...

Cafe Hon

Den neres..

GOLDEN WEST CAFE

This completely off-the-hook place has a decor that is somewhere between Sanford & Sons, Yippee Cayee and the arts-and-crafts department far dem kids that rowwd the shart skool bus. Its funny, eclectic and absolutely charming, and welcoming!

The young, cute tattooed staff were so totally comfortable and accommodating, naturally friendly with no 'tude. The vinyl covered junk furniture in the lounge on leopard carpet remnants all surrounded by the southwestern detritus of 50's and 60's is authentic, yet hilarious. The bathroom walls wuz totally covered in old rekkert alblum covers, not classic Elvis or Rat-Pack ones like you'd expect in a brasserie in Chicago or New York, just fun, old, bad ones like "Hula Island Favorites" and "Barry Manilow Live." The food is southwest and the prices average $10 for an entree!

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